Bordeaux En Primeur: Comparing the Bold 2022 vs. Elegant 2023 Vintages
A Wine Journey from Dreams to Reality
April is a pivotal month in the wine world, as professionals from across the globe descend upon Bordeaux for one of the most anticipated events of the year: En Primeur. The energy is electric, the conversations vibrant, and the wines, still in their infancy, offer a glimpse into the future of some of the most prestigious labels in the world.
When I first started my journey in wine 15 years ago, I could only dream of attending En Primeur. As a Kenyan girl eager to learn about wine, I was captivated by the idea of tasting and assessing wines still maturing in the barrel, long before they reached the market. The concept of En Primeur fascinated me, the excitement, the exclusive access, and the dynamic marketplace where the future of fine wine is shaped. It wasn't just about tasting; it was about connecting with the global wine community, exchanging insights, and being part of something much bigger.
Fast forward to today, and I'm honoured to say that my journey has led me here, experiencing En Primeur first hand since the 2015 vintage. Each year, I've had the privilege of sampling young wines and understanding how each vintage tells its own unique story. This year, I'll once again be traveling to Bordeaux to explore what 2024 has to offer, and like many, I'm filled with anticipation.
Before we turn our focus to 2024, I wanted to take a moment to reflect on the last two vintages—2022 and 2023. By revisiting these years, we can better understand the trends, the challenges, and the triumphs leading up to this year's wines. Each vintage offers valuable insights, not just in the glass but also in the broader market—shaping investment decisions, influencing collectors, and defining what's to come.
So, let's take a closer look at these two most recent vintages and how they compare. What made them stand out? What were the key climatic influences? And what does this tell us about the evolution of Bordeaux wines?
As we prepare for the upcoming tastings, let's set the stage by exploring what the past two years have given us.
Have you ever experienced how dramatically different two consecutive vintages can be?
Understanding Bordeaux's En Primeur System
What is "En Primeur" in Bordeaux?
Bordeaux's "En Primeur," or "futures wines," is a system of purchasing wine while it is still aging in barrels, long before it reaches the market. This tradition allows wine collectors and enthusiasts to secure sought-after bottles at lower prices before their official release.
Each year, the wine world eagerly anticipates the tasting of these young wines, gaining insight into the character of the vintage. "En Primeur" refers to the practice of buying Bordeaux wines while they are still aging in barrels. Typically, sales take place in the spring following the harvest, allowing buyers to purchase wines that will be bottled and delivered two to three years later.
Why buy En Primeur?
For producers: It provides early cash flow.
For consumers: It offers access to highly coveted wines at lower prices before they hit the market.
For investors: There's potential for wines to appreciate in value—but also risks if market conditions shift.
The Contrasting Characters of Recent Bordeaux Vintages
2022: A Vintage of Paradoxes
The 2022 Bordeaux vintage was one of extremes. The region faced frost, hail, forest fires, heat, and drought, leading to unique conditions that shaped the wines. Dry spells thickened grape skins, increasing sugar concentration while forcing vine roots to dig deep for water.
What does this mean for the wines?
Low yields but exceptional aging potential
Deep colour, rustic tannins, and high alcohol
Surprisingly fresh and vibrant fruit despite the heat
The paradox: How does a sun-baked vintage produce wines with such freshness and energy?
The answer, according to Vincent Priou, Director at Château Beauregard and Château Petit-Village in Pomerol, lies in vineyard management:
Canopy management provided shade to the grapes.
Cover crops reduced water evaporation.
Clay-rich soils in Pomerol retained moisture, helping vines withstand drought.
Harvest timing was crucial—grapes picked too late would lose acidity.
Winemaking adjustments were made, with gentle extractions and controlled fermentation temperatures to avoid harsh tannins.
"2022 demanded extreme vigilance in the vineyard. Those who managed water stress effectively while protecting acidity were rewarded with wines of remarkable concentration and unexpected freshness." — Vincent Priou
While technically challenging to vinify, 2022 has proven to be an incredibly rewarding vintage—bold, structured, and built for long-term aging.
2023: A Vintage of Precision, Freshness & Energy
In contrast to 2022's intensity, 2023 is all about elegance and balance. This vintage had its challenges—mildew pressure, mid-September rains—but the resilience of winemakers and an Indian Summer resulted in wines with refined precision and freshness.
Key Characteristics of 2023
Cabernet Sauvignon from the Médoc: Benefitted from an extended harvest, developing complexity and depth.
St. Émilion wines: Showcased chalky tannins and bright acidity from limestone soils.
Pomerol's Merlots: Ripened homogeneously, producing wines with supple tannins and early drinkability.
Dry whites: Retained piercing acidity and full-bodied texture, making them one of the strongest categories of the vintage.
Sauternes & Barsac: Experienced excellent noble rot conditions, producing vibrant and richly textured sweet wines.
Comparing the Vintages: A Buyer's Guide
2022 vs. 2023: At a Glance
Bordeaux Vintage Comparison: 2022 vs 2023
| Characteristic | 2022 | 2023 |
|---|---|---|
| Overall Style | Bold, concentrated, powerful | Elegant, precise, balanced |
| Growing Season | Extreme drought, heat waves, forest fires | Mildew pressure, mid-September rains, Indian summer |
| Alcohol Level | Higher | Moderate |
| Tannin Structure | Powerful, rustic, pronounced | Refined, chalky, elegant |
| Fruit Profile | Rich, concentrated, sun-baked | Fresh, vibrant, pure |
| Acidity | Surprisingly fresh despite heat | Bright, precise, well-defined |
| Aging Potential | Excellent (15-30+ years) | Very good (10-25 years) |
| Approachability | Needs time in bottle | Earlier drinking window |
| Best Regions | Pessac-Léognan, Pauillac, St-Estèphe | St-Émilion, Margaux, Sauternes |
| Best Values | Second wines of top châteaux | Petit Châteaux across regions |
| Ideal For | Collectors seeking power & longevity | Enthusiasts preferring finesse & accessibility |
How Does 2023 Compare to 2022?
2022: High alcohol, bold tannins, and intense concentration.
2023: Lower alcohol, more finesse, and an emphasis on freshness and structure.
Investment Recommendations
For collectors seeking long-term investment:
Focus on 2022 First Growths and Super Seconds from Médoc
Consider top Right Bank estates from both vintages
For enthusiasts wanting near-term enjoyment:
Explore 2023 Cru Bourgeois and Petit Châteaux offerings
Don't overlook 2023 dry whites, which offer tremendous value
For those new to En Primeur: Start with these reliable producers offering excellent quality-to-price ratio in both vintages:
Château Gloria (Saint-Julien)
Château Fonplégade (Saint-Émilion)
Château Cantemerle (Haut-Médoc)
Final Thoughts: Two Compelling Styles for Bordeaux Lovers
Both 2022 and 2023 offer unique and compelling styles for Bordeaux lovers.
If you seek power, depth, and age-worthiness, 2022 is a vintage to collect.
If you prefer precision, energy, and a more approachable style, 2023 is an exciting and elegant choice.
For collectors and enthusiasts considering En Primeur purchases, these two vintages provide exciting opportunities to explore Bordeaux's adaptability and excellence in winemaking.
As I prepare to taste the newest vintage, I carry these experiences with me. Each barrel sample tells a story—not just of a single year, but of centuries of winemaking tradition meeting modern challenges.
Which vintage speaks to you more?
Are you team power (2022) or team elegance (2023)?
Let's discuss in the comments! 🍷
Follow my journey through the 2024 En Primeur week in real-time on Instagram where I'll be sharing daily tastings and insights from the châteaux!